Remember, the whole purpose for buying a high-amp alt is for the high output at idle speeds. It no longer makes sense to spend tons of money on old technology parts when the new ones are ready for all your electrical needs, now and in future. These examples show how technology improved with the price being about the same as the price of a 1960 T-bird (30-amp) generator and regulator. I can get it delivered to my door for $20 cheaper on eBay.Īnother example is the Ford Windstar 3.0l 1999-00, 130-amp 6G alternator. offers that alternator (new) for under a hundred bucks. The 2001-04 6-cyl Mustang came standard with a 105-amp alternator. Junk yards crush them daily.ĮX: Let's look for a Ford alternator that is easy to mount. It will cost more to buy replacement parts for a 60-amp alternator (and separate regulator) than it will a modern 100+amp alt (that already includes an internal regulator). To restore your generator OR voltage regulator, since they are both low production items they will also be expensive.Įarly alternator and regulator parts are the same story. Generator to alternator conversion David, if you decide to go with the C.R.A.P. What to buy? This is where folks shoot themselves in the foot. Conversion to a V-belt from serpentine is easy. That allows me to put my own mounting/pivot holes where I want (in the 'C'). I simply choose an alternator with an easy mounting, then I cut a 'C' out of heavy sheet metal and mount it around the alt. In other words, 'the supply meets the demand'. If you throw a belt, it shines (as you would expect is should).Īll modern alternators have internal regulators and all electric fan setups put out enough amps at idle speeds to support the fan current without draining the battery. Conveniently, your GEN light serves as a perfect 'sense' wire because it is fed directly from your key switch. Modern alternators use a 'Sense' wire (that's the third wire) to turn on the internal voltage regulator. Many times I get the alternator AND the fan. Ive had 62 Thunderbirds with a generator but with the alternator hole already drilled. I buy modern alternators, usually from the bone yard, from low mileage cars with electric fans. Ford started drilling the alternator holes sometime in 1962. So, don't get stuck in rush hour traffic or parades especially if you plan on an electric fan in your future.Įric is right. A 1-wire puts out nothing at idle speeds which causes your battery to drain.RS senses the engine is started by the sudden voltage increase an alternator normally puts out at idle speeds. If you throw a belt, too bad because you won't know it. to much to type Does anyone have a wiring diagram or instructions on how to convert from the old generator to the newer alt so my battery can charge. Alternator Field goes to the F on the v-reg conn. Speed is the only way it senses your engine is actually running I have 22-25 volts comming from the alt (Bat) to the regulator and on the reg comming out is 14.5v. A 1-wire requires 1,500 RPM before it turns on.There are a few things you should know about a 1-wire: PowerGen should be bolt on, add a wire to the battery and go.See how fast and easy it is?
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